Unique YUASA YTZ14S – Lastly Give up

I like spending cash on instruments and check gear and though I didn’t want the newest instrument I simply purchased as a result of some easy testing (extra on that on the backside), I gave it a attempt on a completely charged “failed” YUASA YTZ14S battery that I changed final week.

Now having labored in a battery lab, I by no means gave a lot credit score to quick ‘n simple conductance testers that we examined. Why? As a result of once I did a REAL capability check and a REAL load check, the conductance testers have been shut at greatest.

I purchased the TOPDON BT200. It was on sale at Amazon and solely $5 extra then the BT100, the identical tester, however solely does 12V as an alternative of 12V/24V, not that I can see a lot use for the 24V system.

And the readings from my unique and failed R1200 GS Journey battery that I absolutely charged…

I do not know how they calculate Well being at 2% and 32A when you will have a 230A SAE score.

As you’ll be able to see the “state of cost” of the battery is at 100% and 12.90V which actually is meaningless with out additional data. It’s the open circuit voltage with no load (starter, headlights, ignition-on) utilized when utilizing a Digital Multi Meter on the battery.

The Inside R (reisitance) tells all of it and that’s mainly what you’re doing with a REAL load tester, the place you would be wanting on the voltage drop to a minimal over a 15 second interval whereas cranking the starter (the best load in any car, particularly on a really chilly morning). And 76.92 m Ohm is a really completed battery with regards to inner resistance.

So how did I do know my battery was completed earlier than shopping for my tester?
1) seeing that the battery voltage dropped from about 12.6V to 8V, then 7V once I simply tried to begin it after which simply with the ignition on. No capability!
2) charging the battery and famous that it went from a comparatively lifeless battery to 14.4V in a couple of minutes utilizing a 1A battery charger.